28
Sep
As temperatures drop each fall, fireplaces start coming back into use—often after the chimney has gone unchecked since the previous winter. Based on our experience with more than 40,000 inspections across Northwest Washington, chimneys are one of the most consistently overlooked parts of a home.
A chimney sits outside, takes in weather from every direction, and only gets attention when smoke ends up in the living room.
Here is what to look for before you light the first fire, and what we most often find when we get up there.
Start From the Outside
You can learn a lot about your chimney without ever getting on the roof. Start from the ground with a pair of binoculars, and if you have a clear view from an upstairs window, take a closer look from there.
Look at the crown first. That is the concrete surface on top of the chimney that sheds water away from the masonry. Cracks in the crown let water into the structure, and in our climate where water freezes, expands, and pushes the chimney apart from the inside over successive winters.
Check whether there is a cap. A chimney cap is a metal cover with mesh sides that keeps rain, leaves, and animals out of the flue. Plenty of older Seattle chimneys don’t have one. A missing cap is the cheapest problem on this list to fix and one of the most worthwhile, because it stops water and wildlife from entering the chimney in one go.
Look at the mortar joints. Crumbling or missing mortar joints between bricks call for repointing, which is normal maintenance for an older chimney rather than a crisis. What it should not be is ignored, because open joints take on water.
Then look at where the chimney meets the roof. That flashing detail is one of the most common leak points on any house, whether the roof is cedar, asphalt, metal, or something else. Staining on the ceiling near a chimney usually starts at the flashing rather than inside the flue.
Key Takeaway: Most chimney trouble starts with water rather than fire. A cracked crown, a missing cap, or failed roof flashing lets moisture into masonry, which then freezes and breaks apart over the winter. A chimney cap is the cheapest fix on the list and prevents both water and animal entry.
Then Move Inside to the Firebox and the Damper
Inside, open the damper and look up with a flashlight.
The damper is the metal plate that opens and closes the flue. It should move freely and seal when closed. Dampers rust shut, warp, or can lose their handle, and a damper stuck closed is the reason a room fills with smoke.
On the flip side, a damper stuck open allows heated air to escape all winter, reducing efficiency and adding unnecessary cost to your heating bill.
Look at the firebox itself. The brick and mortar directly around the fire should be intact. Gaps, missing mortar, or cracked brick mean heat is reaching material that was not intended to take it.
Point the flashlight up the flue and look for two things: blockages and creosote buildup. Blockages in this region are often caused by nests, leaves, or loose pieces of masonry. Creosote is the dark, tar-like residue left behind by wood smoke, and it can fuel a chimney fire. A light coating is normal, but thick, shiny, tar-like buildup is not. If you see significant buildup, do not use the chimney until it has been professionally cleaned.
If you notice a strong campfire smell in the room when the fireplace isn’t in use, especially on warm, damp days, it’s often a sign of creosote buildup in the chimney.
Key Takeaway: Open the damper and check that it moves freely and seals. Then look up the flue for blockage and for creosote, the tarry residue wood smoke leaves behind. A thick shiny coating is the fuel for a chimney fire and means the chimney should not be used until it is professionally cleaned.
Gas Fireplaces Are Not Exempt
Many Seattle homes have gas inserts, and people assume gas means nothing to check. Not quite.
Gas appliances still vent combustion byproducts, and that venting must remain clear and intact. We look at the vent connection, the condition of the glass and its seal, and whether the unit sits in a fireplace that was properly adapted for it.
Every home with a fuel-burning appliance should have working carbon monoxide alarms. Washington requires them in residences, and they’re especially important during the colder months when windows stay closed and heating systems run more often. Carbon monoxide is odorless, so without an alarm, you may have no warning that it’s present.
While you’re at it, check your smoke alarms and replace the batteries if needed. Fall is a good time to make this part of your annual home maintenance routine.
What Our Inspectors Look At
The chimney and fireplace are part of every home inspection. Here is our scope and its limits, stated plainly.
We evaluate the chimney exterior for cracking, leaning, deteriorated mortar, crown condition, cap presence, and flashing at the roof line. We check the firebox, the damper operation, and the hearth extension. We look up the flue as far as we can safely see. We check that gas units vent properly and that clearances are correct. And we confirm smoke and carbon monoxide alarms are present.
A standard home inspection is not a Level 2 chimney inspection. A Level 2 inspection is performed by a chimney specialist and includes a camera examination of the entire interior of the flue. It is typically recommended when a home changes ownership or after a chimney fire. If what we see suggests the flue liner needs that kind of look, we will say so directly rather than hedge.
Here in Western Washington, earthquake risk is another reason to pay attention to your chimney. Older masonry chimneys can be particularly vulnerable to cracking or shifting during seismic activity, especially when they are already deteriorated. As part of the home inspection, our inspectors evaluate the visible condition and construction of the masonry chimney, along with the home’s other structural components.
Key Takeaway: A home inspection covers the chimney exterior, crown, cap, flashing, firebox, damper, and any part of the flue that can be safely seen. It is not a Level 2 chimney inspection, which uses a camera to survey the full flue interior and is the recommended standard when a home changes hands.
A Short List Before You Light It
Confirm the damper opens, closes, and seals.
Confirm the flue is clear and that creosote has not built up.
Confirm there is a cap and that the crown is not cracked.
Confirm the firebox masonry is intact.
Confirm smoke and carbon monoxide alarms work.
Burn dry, seasoned wood. Wet or green wood is the fastest way to build creosote, and around here wood that has been sitting outside uncovered is wetter than it looks.
Never burn construction scrap, painted or treated wood, or cardboard.
The Chimney Safety Institute of America publishes homeowner guidance on cleaning intervals and what a professional sweep should cover, and the National Fire Protection Association is the source behind most of the standards your local sweep will reference.
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should a chimney be swept?
Industry guidance calls for an annual inspection, with cleaning based on what the inspection finds rather than on a fixed schedule. A fireplace used most weekends through the winter will need cleaning more often than one lit twice a year. Frequency depends far more on how much you burn and how dry the wood is than a date on the calendar.
What does creosote look like, and how much is too much?
Creosote is the dark residue wood smoke deposits inside the flue. A light powdery dusting is normal. What concerns us is a thick, shiny, tar-like layer, which is both harder to remove and far more flammable. If you can see a glossy black coating, stop using the fireplace and have it cleaned before the next fire.
Does a standard home inspection include the chimney?
Yes, within the limits of a visual inspection. We evaluate the exterior, crown, cap, flashing, firebox, damper, and the flue as safely visible. We do not perform a camera survey of the flue interior, which is a Level 2 chimney inspection and a specialist service.
I have a gas insert. Does any of this apply?
Some of it. Gas units still vent combustion byproducts, so the venting has to be clear and correctly connected, and the exterior chimney still takes weather. You will not have creosote, but you should have working carbon monoxide alarms, and the unit and its venting should be checked before heating season.
Why does my house smell like smoke when the fireplace is not lit?
Usually, creosote buildup in the flue gets stronger on warm, humid days as air moves down the chimney instead of up. It can also mean a negative pressure problem where the house pulls air down the flue. Either way, it is worth having the chimney looked at, because the smell is telling you something about the flue’s condition.
Should I get a chimney inspection when buying a house?
If the home has a working fireplace or wood stove, a Level 2 chimney inspection is the standard recommendation at transfer, and it is inexpensive compared to the cost of a flue repair. Your home inspection will tell you whether what we can see raises that from a good idea to a priority.
Schedule Your Inspection
Titan Inspection Services has completed more than 40,000 inspections across Northwest Washington and holds a 4.9-star rating. Every inspection covers 150+ items and includes over 250 photos, and the chimney is one of them.
Call 206.451.1120 or visit titaninspectionservices.com to get on the schedule. We can usually get you in the same day, and your full report lands within 24 hours.